Northwest Saint Bernards

Website:  http://www.infodog.com/

Website: http://www.onofrio.com

Website: http://www.barayevents.com/

Website:  http://www.rogersdogshows.com/

Saint Bernard Club of America

http://www.saintbernard.org/

Examples of Poor Bred and Well Bred Saints

http://www.saintbernard.org/0pups/index2.htm

FAQ

http://www.saintbernard.org/faqs.htm

Weight Pull Harnesses

http://www.pulldoggies.com/Harness.htm

http://www.harnessesbycarol.com/

http://www.itsmysite.com/cdpits/

WEIGHT PULLING FOR SAINT BERNARDS

How did Weight Pulling get started?

Dogs have been used to pull or carry weights for centuries, long before the introduction of the horse or ox. The American Indian used them to pull a travois loaded with meat from a hunt or gear when a camp was moved. The same is true of the Natives of Alaska and Canada, especially in areas were horses were impractical or unavailable. During the Alaska Gold Rush, the natural pulling abilities of the Saint Bernard and other dogs were exploited in heavy-duty freight hauling competitions. The Sport of Weight Pulling as seen today evolved from these early freight hauling competitions of Alaska.

When did the SBCA start sanctioning Weight Pulls? The Saint Bernard Club of America formulated Weight Pull Regulations in 1987 to enable dogs to earn Weight Pull Titles through the Working Dog Committee. The first qualifying events began with the 1988 season. These Regulations were fashioned after existing regulations of other weight pulling clubs to include the Interior Freight Dog Association, the International Weight Pull Association, and the Alaskan Malamute Club of America to name a few.

Where do you get Weight Pull harnesses and equipment? Quality weight pull harnesses, individually fitted to your dog can be found at competitive prices from Nordkyn Outfitters (http://www.nordkyn.com or phone: 253-847-4128), Ikon Outfitters (phone: 608-592-4397), and Dogworks (phone: 717-993-6644). Some people make homemade harnesses, but I would not advise it unless you have experience in this area.

Where can you find books on Weight Pulling? Nordkyn Outfitters carries two books on weight pulling. One is Teach Your Dog To Pull by Mike Sternberg and the other is Weight Pulling For Dogs by Victor Rowell. Both books are good, but the book by Sternberg is an easier read and has some basic Weight Pull rules in it.

When can you start training your Saint to pull? The age at which training begins depends on the physical and psychological readiness of the individual dog. Assuming proper socialization and a good relationship with it’s handler, a Saint Bernard can be introduced to the feel of the harness and light weights at the age of three months and almost all are ready for basic training by six months of age. It is important to realize that the purpose of early training is to accustom the dog to the feel of the harness, to be able to move a weight easily, and to learn the proper response to the command to pull. A Saint’s first few experiences in the harness are critical and should be pleasant and rewarding. Nothing sours a dog faster than fear and forcing the issue. No dog is ready for heavy weights or competition before a full year of age.

What commands are used in Weight Pulling? When possible, make your commands different than those used in formal Obedience. A good Recall can be ruined by using "Come" as your pull command, and if you have a good "Sit/Stay", you will confuse the dog when you then tell them to pull. "Hike" and "Pull" are the most common commands that handlers use to get the dog to pull the weight. In some clubs, the dog must stay in place while the handler crosses the finish line before giving the pull command. In these instances, "Wait" is a good command. It does not matter which position the dog is in (Standing, Sitting, or Down), as long as the dog does not start pulling until given the command to do so.

How do you train a Saint to Weight Pull? Most Saints take readily to a harness. You can start by having your Saint associate the harness with good things. Put the harness on and then feed the dog. Put the harness on (put the spreader bar on the back in case your dog relieves himself) and go for a walk. After your Saint accepts the harness, it is time for some light weight. Put your dog in the harness, hook a light tow chain to the D-ring and go for a walk. Tell the dog "Let’s go" and walk on all types of surfaces. The chain will have more resistance on grass and will be noisy on concrete. The object is to accustom the dog to having resistance on the harness and noise behind them. The dog’s first reaction is to check out what is following him, but given time they realize it will not harm them and just move out when asked to. Remember to praise and/or reward your dog for acceptance of the harness and weight. After the dog is use to the chain, hook something to it to add weight and resistance. A tree branch, tire, or kid’s sled work nicely. Add weight and resistance as long as the dog is able to easily pull the previous load.

How do you train the Saint to compete in Weight Pulling? Once the dog is used to having weight and resistance attached to the harness, it is time to teach it to pull on command. First lighten up the load. You are only teaching the dog to pull on command, not with great weight just yet. Use the method of training that you are comfortable with. Use food or a toy to lure a dog forward or a slight "pop" on the leash to compel the dog to move forward. It is easier if the dog is food or toy motivated. Put the food or toy right in front of the dog’s nose and ask them to pull. Praise any forward movement. If they have difficulty in moving the load, make it lighter. The proper pull position is with the head down and the pull against the shoulders with all four feet on the ground. If the dog starts leaping in the harness, the treat is too high. Using the "pop" method, the tug on the leash needs to be in a slightly downward position to get the dog to put his head down to pull.

Once the dog knows that "Pull" or "Hike" means to come to you with resistance on the shoulders, you can take the leash off or stop using the treat or toy for a lure. Keep the load light, stand right in front of the dog and give the pull command. Encourage verbally any forward motion or attempt to pull the light load. As the dog moves forward, start walking backward, all the while encouraging the dog to pull. Try not repeating the pull command, as this will confuse the dog. The pull command starts the behavior, the encouragement, such as "Good Dog", tells the dog he is doing what you asked of him. As the dog readily pulls each time, you can increase the distance between you and the dog until you can get the dog to pull while giving the command from about 16 feet away. Once the distance is mastered you can increase the amount of weight being moved. Always make sure the dog completes each pull. Never ask the dog to do more than he is mentally or physically capable of accomplishing.

Where can someone find Weight Pulls in their area? The International Weight Pull Association has pulls all over Canada and 49 of the United States of America to include Alaska. Their web site is www.iwpa.net. They also have a newsletter that posts all of their sanctioned pulls. IWPA is open to all dogs, purebred and mixed heritage. The Interior Freight Dog Association hold Weight Pulls in the Interior of Alaska. Other breed clubs that hold pulls that are open to other dogs are the Alaskan Malamute Clubs, Samoyed Clubs, and Saint Bernard Clubs. Contact a club near you to find out if they hold weight pulls that are open to other breeds.

How can a Saint Bernard Club get started in Weight Pulling? The current Weight Pull Regulations can be found at the Saint Bernard Club of America’s web site, or write to the Weight Pull Secretary, Vicki Graves at 13104 - 50th Ave. East, Tacoma, WA 98446. The hardest part about putting on a weight pull is locating a scale and a weight pull cart. The easiest way to do this is to locate and rent the equipment from a club that is active in Weight Pulling. Barriers, weight pull cart, something to use as weight (grain bags, dog food, and bricks have all been used), and a scale to weigh the dogs and weight are just some of the things needed to put on a Weight Pull. Your club would also need to contact a qualified judge and apply for sanctioning with the Weight Pull Secretary.

What titles can be earned in Weight Pulling and how are they earned? The SBCA awards three Weight Pull Titles. The first level is the Weight Puller Title and it is earned by a dog competing in three individual Weight Pulls and successfully pulling eight times his weight on snow or ten times his weight on wheels at each pull. An individual weight pull certification needs to be filled out at the pull and signed by an official and turned in to the Weight Pull Secretary within 90 days of the pull. The second level is Weight Puller Excellent and is earned by a dog pulling ten times his weight on snow or twelve times his weight on wheels. The third level is Weight Puller Superior and the dog must pull twelve times his weight on snow or fourteen times his weight on wheels. The dog also has to have pulled at least 8 times his weight on snow or 10 times his weight on wheels at a SBCA sanctioned weight pull sometime in its pulling career. Also points are earned at every weight pull the dog pulls the Starting Weight of 500 pounds by his placement and number of dogs defeated. Points are used for Statistical Standings only. For complete rules see the Weight Pull Regulations.

Who is the Weight Pull Secretary? The Weight Pull Secretary is a part of the Working Dog Committee and is someone who tracks individual dogs accomplishments and then submits paperwork to the Working Dog Chairman to award titles. At this writing the Weight Pull Secretary is Vicki Graves, 13104 - 50th Ave. East, Tacoma, WA 98446. Phone: 253-229-7051. email: Vicdory@MSN.com.

Who wins a Weight Pull? There are two types of winners at a Weight Pull. If there are different weight classes (for instance 140 lbs. and below and 141 lbs. and above), the dog who pulls the most weight in the fastest time is the winner of it’s weight class. Dogs can not pull across or against dogs in another class. Some clubs will reward the dog who pulls the most weight over all, but this is usually individual breed clubs and varies pull to pull. The other winner is the dog who pulls the most weight by percentage. This award is given to the dog who pulls the most weight pound for pound (weight pulled divided by dog’s weight equals percent pulled).

Is it cruel to make a dog Weight Pull and does it cause Hip Dysplasia? You can not make a dog pull weight in competition. Food, toys, leashes, and other items used to coerce a dog to perform are forbidden at a Weight Pull. If your dog does not want to pull, there is nothing you can do to make them. Dogs pull because they love their handler and want to please them. Any cruelty caught at a pull is punished by expulsion. Many clubs no longer offer cash prizes at pulls to keep this type of competitiveness away.

If a dog is dysplastic, all weight pulling does is make the handler aware of the disorder. A dog will not pull if it is in pain.

What is so exciting about Weight Pulling? Weight Pulling is one of the few sports that crosses all lines. Anyone can compete from the Multi-Best in Specialty Show winners like Ch. Revilo’s Quincy, CD, WP, HOF, POE to the Rescued Saint with only an ILP number. To compete takes very little time and training, just a dog’s willingness to please his handler. For equipment, all you need is a well-made harness and something to pull during training. Weight Pulling is rewarding for the dog and its handler. The dog gets praise and encouragement from his handler and the spectators. The handler gets pride in the dog’s accomplishments. As a spectator there is nothing like the excitement of watching a dog give a Herculean effort to move great weights and all for LOVE.

 

 

RESCUE SAINT CONTACTS

Saint Bernard Rescue Foundation - http://www.saintrescue.org/

Carol Beck - Star's Saint Bernards - Trail, OR  - phone:  541-878-8281- starssts@earthlink.net

Southern Oregon Rescue

Paul & Karen Bodeving - Shadow Mtn Saint Bernards - Cave Junction, OR  - phone: 541-592-6529 - saints@santbernard.com

Northern Oregon Rescue

Bill & Diana Oliver - Revilo Saint Bernards - Portland, OR - Revilodogs@aol.com

Western Washington Rescue

Seattle Purebred Dog Rescue - Seattle, WA - http://www.spdrdogs.org/

Eastern Washington Rescue

Cheryl Deming - C2dogs2@yahoo.com - (509)276-2112

Breed Predisposition to Disease and Congenital Conditions

St. Bernard

• Acral lick granuloma
• Acromegaly
• Aphakia with multiple colobomas
  • Absence of lens associated with microphthalmia, acornea, retinal detachment, and anterior synechia
• Cardiomyopathy
• Deafness
• Dermoid cysts of cornea
  • Thick walled cyst containing sebaceous glands, hair follicles and sweat glands
• Diabetes mellitus
• Distichiasis
  • Two rows of eyelashes
  • Resulting in irritation and epiphora
• Ectropion
  • Outward rolling eyelids
• Elbow dysplasia
• Entropion
  • Inward rolling eyelids
• Epilepsy
• Epithelial lined cysts of anterior pituitary
• Eversion of nictitating membrane
• Factor I deficiency, fibrinogen deficiency, afibrogenemia, hypo-fibrinogenemia
  • Severe or lethal hemorrhage
• Folliculitis and furunculosis, bacterial
• Gastric torsion
• Genu valgum
  • Knees bowed medially due to rapid growth
  • Prevalent in giant breeds
• Hemophilia A, Factor VIII or AHF deficiency
  • Prolonged bleeding
  • Hemorrhagic episodes
  • Prolonged PTT
  • Reduced AHF and Factor VIII
• Hemophilia B , Factor IX deficiency
  • Prolonged bleeding
  • Abnormal prothrombin consumption and thromboplastin generation
  • Reduced factor IX
  • Heterozygotes with Hemophilia B bleed more than heterozygotes with Hemophilia A
• Hepato arteriovenous fistula
• Hip Dysplasia
  • Deformed coxofemoral joints with clinical signs from none to severe hip lameness
  • Radiographically there may be shallow acetabulum
  • Flattened femoral head
  • Subluxation 
  • Secondary degenerative joint diseas
• Hypertrophic osteopathy
• Hygroma
• Idiopathic degenerative joint disease
• Lip fold pyoderma
  • Localized
  • Infectious
• Lymphoma
• Metabolic bone disease
• Osteochondrosis dissecans
• Osteosarcoma
• Oversized palpebral  fissure
• Pyotraumatic dermatitis (hot spots)
• Redundant facial skin
• Retained cartilage of distal ulna
• Spleen torsion
• Stockard's paralysis
• Uveodermatologic syndrome

Some Questions You May Have About the Saint Bernard

   (from the Saint Bernard Club of America, used with permission)
   
   1. How much do they eat?
   
     A Saint Bernard will not "eat you out of house and home." The fact
     is, a Saint Bernard can be raised and maintained on no more food
     than required for other large breeds. Since Saints are basically
     placid dogs, they generally require less food per pound of body
     weight than most smaller, more active breeds.
     
   2. How much do they weigh?
   
     Saint puppies weigh about one and one-half pounds at birth and grow
     rapidly during the first year, although it may take as long as
     three years before they reach full maturity. Adult males may reach
     a height of 28-30 inches at the shoulder and will normally weigh
     between 140 and 180 pounds. Female are somewhat smaller at about
     26-28 inches at the shoulder and typically range from 120-140
     pounds.
     
   3. Are they good with children?
   
     Definitely. They have an understanding of a child's way and are
     amazingly careful not to injure a child. They are excellent
     babysitters and companions. Naturally, a child must never be
     allowed to torment any dog, regardless of breed.
     
   4. Are they easy to train?
   
     Because of the size of the animal, Saint Bernards MUST be trained
     and this must be done early in their lives. Fortunately, Saints are
     eager to please and will begin responding to commands as soon as
     they understand what you want of them.
     
   5. Do they shed?
   
     Yes: twice a year, usually in Spring and Fall, they lose much of
     their coats to help them adjust to the changing seasons. For the
     remainder of the year, there is seldom any annoyance from shedding.
     
   6. Do they drool?
   
     Yes. Depending on the weather, the level of excitement, and the
     shape of the dog's jowls, most Saints will drool on occasion.
     Technically, there is no such thing as a "dry mouthed Saint", but
     most Saints do not drool to a offensive degree.
     
   7. Are they good watch dogs?
   
     The Saint's size and bark will discourage most intruders, yet they
     will learn to recognize your friends and receive them cordially. If
     an intruder gets by the size and barks, your Saint may decide to
     lead the intruder straight to the family silver since they would
     much prefer to be friends to all. The one exception to this is when
     a member of the family is being threatened. The Saint's instinct to
     protect those they love becomes apparent at this time.
     
  8. Why do some Saint Bernards have short hair?
   
     The original Saint Bernards were all short-haired dogs. Over 150
     years ago, the Monks in Switzerland found it necessary to bring
     some new blood into their breeding and interbred the long coated
     Newfoundland with the Saints. Today, the influence of that breeding
     is still with us and we have both long and short-haired Saint
     Bernards.
     
  9. How much exercise do they need? Can one be kept in an apartment?
   
     Saint Bernards don't need as much exercise as many other breeds,
     but a fenced yard should be provided so they can get whatever
     amount they require. The apartment dweller must be walked
     frequently to make up for the exercise they would otherwise take at
     their leisure. It is not a good practice to keep a Saint Bernard
     tied up.
     
   10. How much care do they need?
   
     Clean fresh water (especially in Summer), a well balanced diet and
     thorough brushing weekly, the necessary immunity shots and lots of
     common sense is all that is necessary.
     
   11. Should I get a male or female?
   
     This is strictly a matter of personal preference. Both are equal in
     pet qualities. The male, being larger, is more impressive when
     first viewed. The female however must be considered his equal in
     all other respects. Once you have made the decision male or female
     your choice will be the right one: you will have a loving pet and a
     most rewarding experience.
     
   12. How do they thrive in the hot weather?
   
     The dogs will do well as long as they have a cool dry place to nap
     and plenty of fresh cool water. They will cut down both their food
     intake and amount of activity. It must be remembered that going
     from an air conditioned place into the boiling heat can be
     disastrous. The abrupt change in temperature will be extremely hard
     on a Saint.
     
   13. Where do I buy a Saint Bernard?
   
     There are breeders in most areas who are sincerely interested in
     supplying you with a Saint you will be proud to own. To these
     breeders, a dog is infinitely more that just a commodity to be sold
     for profit. Their interest is in the animal and matching them to
     the right home. They are anxious to assist you with care, feeding
     and answering your questions.
    
     _________________________________________________________________
                                     
Health Issues

   Saint Bernards, as many other breeds, can have particular problems
   which reputable breeders try to breed out. A reputable and
   knowledgeable breeder will be glad to discuss these and other health
   concerns with a puppy buyer.
  
  Hip Dysplasia
 
   Because of their large size, Saint Bernards are particularly prone to
   Hip Dysplasia, a joint disease that can eventually cripple dogs,
   depending on its severity. Data from the Orthopedic Foundation for
   Animals shows a rate of approximately 49% of xrays sent to them for
   diagnosis being evaluated as dysplastic. As many xrays are never sent
   in to OFA when something is obviously wrong, the actual rate may be
   much higher.
       
  Feeding
 
   As with any large or giant breed, care must be taken not to over feed
   or oversupplement young puppies. Too-rapid growth or excess weight can
   put undue stress on young still-growing joints and cause or exacerbate
   problems in the elbows or hips. Consult with the breeder of your dog
   as to when it is appropriate to switch to an adult formula and monitor
   your growing Saint's weight level closely. Saints continue to grow and
   mature for at least the first three years, there is no rush to get to
   full size!
  
  Lifespan
 
   As with most giant breeds, Saint Bernards commonly have short lives
   from 7-11 years. A few individuals may live longer, but shorter lives
   are the rule and not the exception.
  
  Other conditions
 
   You should check about other conditions that Saints can get, such as
   entropion (a condition of the eyelid) and epilepsy. Again, a reputable
   breeder will talk freely and candidly about these problems.
  
   In addition, as with other breeds of similar size and type, the Saint
   Bernard may be subsceptible to problems such as heat stroke and bloat.
   You should discuss these conditions with your vet so that you
   understand what the warning signs are and seek immediate veterinary
   care should they occur. With such a large breed, you must plan in
   advance what you will do should your dog collapse (for whatever
   reason) as they are too large to carry.
  

Did you know?

쨌 The Saint Bernard Club of America was organized in 1888, but it was disbanded and the club was re-formed in 1898. This club continues to function for the interests of the Saint Bernard and is one of the oldest specialty clubs in the United States.

쨌 The origin of the Saint Bernard is subject to many theories. It seems most probable that the Saint Bernard developed from stock that resulted from the breeding of heavy Asian "Molosser" (Canis molossus), brought to Helvetia (Switzerland) by Roman armies during the first two centuries A.D., with native dogs which undoubtedly existed in the region at the time of the Roman invasions.

쨌 These dogs were widely used in the valley farms and Alpine dairies for a variety of guarding, herding, and drafting duties. Referred to as Talhund (Valley Dog) or Bauernhund (Farm Dog), they were apparently well established by A.D. 1050, when Archdeacon Bernard de Menthon founded the famous Hospice in the Swiss Alps as a refuge for travelers crossing the treacherous passes between Switzerland and Italy.

So you want to own a Saint Bernard?

The Saint Bernard is a hard worker known for his loyalty and dedication.

The Saint Bernard loves children, but be careful the dogs great size could lead to an unintentional accident when playing.

Saint Bernards need lots of room and exercise. If you have the space and have the time to exercise your dog, Saint Bernards make good house dogs and companions.

Breed Standard

Shorthaired

General
Powerful, proportionately tall figure, strong and muscular in every part, with powerful head and most intelligent expression. In dogs with a dark mask the expression appears more stern, but never ill-natured.

Head
Like the whole body, very powerful and imposing. The massive skull is wide, slightly arched and the sides slope in a gentle curve into the very strongly developed, high cheek bones. Occiput only moderately developed. The supra-orbital ridge is very strongly developed and forms nearly a right angle with the long axis of the head. Deeply imbedded between the eyes and starting at the root of the muzzle, a furrow runs over the whole skull. It is strongly marked in the first half, gradually disappearing toward the base of the occiput. The lines at the sides of the head diverge considerably from the outer corner of the eyes toward the back of the head. The skin of the forehead, above the eyes, forms rather noticeable wrinkles, more or less pronounced, which converge toward the furrow. Especially when the dog is alert or at attention the wrinkles are more visible without in the least giving the impression of morosity. Too strongly developed wrinkles are not desired. The slope from the skull to the muzzle is sudden and rather steep.

The muzzle is short, does not taper, and the vertical depth at the root of the muzzle must be greater than the length of the muzzle. The bridge of the muzzle is not arched, but straight; in some dogs, occasionally, slightly broken. A rather wide, well-marked, shallow furrow runs from the root of the muzzle over the entire bridge of the muzzle to the nose. The flews of the upper jaw are strongly developed, not sharply cut, but turning in a beautiful curve into the lower edge, and slightly overhanging. The flews of the lower jaw must not be deeply pendant. The teeth should be sound and strong and should meet in either a scissors or an even bite; the scissors bite being preferable. The undershot bite, although sometimes found with good specimens, is not desirable. The overshot bite is a fault. A black roof to the mouth is desirable.

Nose (Schwamm) - Very substantial, broad, with wide open nostrils, and, like the lips, always black.

Ears - Of medium size, rather high set, with very strongly developed burr (Muschel) at the base. They stand slightly away from the head at the base, then drop with a sharp bend to the side and cling to the head without a turn. The flap is tender and forms a rounded triangle, slightly elongated toward the point, the front edge lying firmly to the head, whereas the back edge may stand somewhat away from the head, especially when the dog is at attention. Lightly set ears, which at the base immediately cling to the head, give it an oval and too little marked exterior, whereas a strongly developed base gives the skull a squarer, broader and much more expressive appearance.

Eyes - Set more to the front than the sides, are of medium size, dark brown, with intelligent, friendly expression, set moderately deep. The lower eyelids, as a rule, do not close completely and, if that is the case, form an angular wrinkle toward the inner corner of the eye. Eyelids which are too deeply pendant and show conspicuously the lachrymal glands, or a very red, thick haw, and eyes that are too light, are objectionable.

Neck
Set high, very strong and when alert or at attention is carried erect. Otherwise horizontally or slightly downward. The junction of head and neck is distinctly marked by an indentation. The nape of the neck is very muscular and rounded at the sides which makes the neck appear rather short. The dewlap of throat and neck is well pronounced: too strong development, however, is not desirable.

Shoulders
Sloping and broad, very muscular and powerful. The withers are strongly pronounced.

Chest
Very well arched, moderately deep, not reaching below the elbows.

Back
Very broad, perfectly straight as far as the haunches, from there gently sloping to the rump, and merging imperceptibly into the root of the tail.

Hindquarters
Well-developed. Legs very muscular.

Belly
Distinctly set off from the very powerful loin section, only little drawn up.

Tail
Starting broad and powerful directly from the rump is long, very heavy, ending in a powerful tip. In repose it hangs straight down, turning gently upward in the lower third only, which is not considered a fault. In a great many specimens the tail is carried with the end slightly bent and therefore hangs down in the shape of an "f". In action all dogs carry the tail more or less turned upward. However it may not be carried too erect or by any means rolled over the back. A slight curling of the tip is sooner admissible.

Upper Arms
Very powerful and extraordinarily muscular.

Lower Leg
Straight, strong.

Hind legs
Hocks of moderate angulation. Dewclaws are not desired; if present, they must not obstruct gait.

Feet
Broad, with strong toes, moderately closed, and with rather high knuckles. The so-called dewclaws which sometimes occur on the inside of the hind legs are imperfectly developed toes. They are of no use to the dog and are not taken into consideration in judging. They may be removed by surgery.

Coat
Very dense, short-haired (stockhaarig), lying smooth, tough, without however feeling rough to the touch. The thighs are slightly bushy. The tail at the root has longer and denser hair which gradually becomes shorter toward the tip. The tail appears bushy, not forming a flag.

Color
White with red or red with white, the red in its various shades; brindle patches with white markings. The colors red and brown-yellow are of entirely equal value. Necessary markings are: white chest, feet and tip of tail, noseband, collar or spot on the nape; the latter and blaze are very desirable. Never of one color or without white. Faulty are all other colors, except the favorite dark shadings on the head (mask) and ears. One distinguishes between mantle dogs and splash-coated dogs.

Height at Shoulder
Of the dog should be 27쩍 inches minimum, of the bitch 25쩍 inches. Female animals are of finer and more delicate build.

Considered as Faults
Are all deviations from the Standard, as for instance a swayback and a disproportionately long back, hocks too much bent, straight hindquarters, upward growing hair in spaces between the toes, out at elbows, cowhocks and weak pasterns.

Longhaired

The longhaired type completely resembles the shorthaired type except for the coat which is not shorthaired (stockhaarig) but of medium length plain to slightly wavy, never rolled or curly and not shaggy either. Usually, on the back, especially from the region of the haunches to the rump, the hair is more wavy, a condition, by the way, that is slightly indicated in the shorthaired dogs. The tail is bushy with dense hair of moderate length. Rolled or curly hair, or a flag tail, is faulty. Face and ears are covered with short and soft hair; longer hair at the base of the ear is permissible. Forelegs only slightly feathered; thighs very bushy.

Approved April 13, 1998
Effective May 31, 1998

SBCPS & SBCA Members

 

• Paul & Karen Bodeving - Shadow Mtn Saint Bernards - Grants Pass, OR - saints@santbernard.com Website:  http://www.saintbernard.com/

  

Rick & Sheri Boldt - Sherick Saint Bernards - Auburn, WA - shericksaints@msn.com   

John & Lisa Chinn - Rainier Saint Bernards - Rainier, WA - jtchinn@fairpoint.net  Website:  http://www.rainiersaints.com/index.html   

Vicki Graves - Vicdory Saint Bernards - Tacoma, WA - phone # 253-229-7051 - email: Vicdory@msn.com - Web Site:  

Dana & Celeste Gregory - Winter Saint Bernards - Tacoma, WA - Call: 253-535-6455 

Lorelei Marenco - Loramar Saint Bernards - Graham, WA - lmarenco@sanw.org  or loramarsaints@hotmail.com Website:  

Gary & Carolyn New - New Sage Saint Bernards - Selah, WA - Gnu7653@aol.com - Web Site: 

Bill & Diana Oliver - Revilo Saint Bernards - Portland, OR - Revilodogs@aol.com 

Stan & Joan Zielinski - Stoan's Saint Bernards - Kent, WA - Joan@Stoans.com Website: http://www.stoans.com/index.html   

SBCA Members

• Gary Becker & Amanda Gross - Redside Saint Bernards, Milwaukie, OR - redsidesaints@yahoo.com 503-794-2872
• Mike & Alice Kane - Mystic Saint Bernards, Portland, OR - sixofswords@msn.com 
• Mylnn "Tikki" Smith - Lasquite's Saint Bernards - Canada - smithtikki@hotmail.com - Website:  

 

 

Contact me at Vicdory@msn.com

Thank you for stopping by.

Vicki Graves

Vicdory@msn.com

 

  Saint Bernard Rescue Foundation, INC.

WASHINGTON STATE/IDAHO

Cheryl Olson	(509)276-2112	C2dogs2@yahoo.com
Danielle Parris	(425)443-2475	danielle@danielleparris.com

 

Welcome

to the

Northwest Saint Bernard Website

---

SBCA WEBSITE:  http://www.saintbernard.org/

 

SAINT BERNARD NATIONAL ARCHIVES:  http://clubs.akc.org/saints/Archives/Welcome.htm

 

SBCPS WEBSITE:  http://groups.msn.com/SaintBernardClubofPugetSound

 

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